Fitting a Smart Charger

[Anorak57]

Vehicle: 2022 Yaris Cross Dynamic.
When I purchased this vehicle I wasn't told that it be a problem that I only drive 3000 - 4000 miles a year.
Having suffered a flat battery and having to call AA on 3 occasions, I purchased a smart charger so I could keep the car on trickle charge.
First problem was removing rear seat. After lots of effort I managed to release one end, fortunately the side of the battery.
Current problem: Having lifted the seat there is a felt cover over the battery held in place with white studs/poppers, whatever.
Can someone please tell me how to remove these white studs showing in the photograph.

Further advice please. Can someone please tell me where to make the actual connection.

Thanks for any help.

[Anorak57]

Found the answer to the white stud question.

They unscrew with a very small screwdriver.

Now having a problem actually accessing the red positive terminal.

[Stobie]

No need to go any where near the battery. The easiest option is to buy one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165213127421 ... R9bxp_ulYg

and plug the OBD2 connector into the car socket which is in the fuse compartment on the dash, this socket has a constant live feed to the battery.

If you are going into the battery compartment you might as well replace the battery with a higher 44ah Bosch type 2002 which is the same physical size as the OEM battery.

[PhilS]

Hi,

I have a similar problem, due to low use of the car. But there is no need to go near the battery under the back seat. There is a connection point under the bonnet, in the fuse box. The is a positive terminal there and attach the negative to any of the body contacts.

Good luck

Regards
Phil

[tiptoe]

Answer found.

[JonathanM]

We have just had a flat battery after the car wasn't used for 3½ days which doesn't seem a long time to me especially since it's a 23 plate. Toyota Assist sent out the AA who used a power pack to get it running. Luckily it was in the garage at home and not in a pay car park. To charge the battery, the AA said it was quickest just to run the car (on EV or engine) but it can be charged with a charger as mentioned above. Unclip the three clips on the fuse/relay box under the bonnet on the passenger side, flip up the red cover on the positive terminal and attach the positive lead to this and the negative lead to an earthed bolt. This is the same for jump starting. The car actually needs very little power to jump start. It only needs enough to trip the starting relay then the big battery takes over. On our car, the engine didn't start running for 5 minutes after jump starting so there's no need for a massive power pack.

[Cuddles]

I have decided to trade in my AygoX as I now need to put the dog crate in the boot with rear passenger so the Yaris Cross is perfect and crate fits in nicely.
My problem is it is my low mileage daily as I have a GR Yaris for longer fun runs so won't do more than 4-5k miles a year. I use a CTEC battery conditioner on the GRY and keeps that perfect. I can fit the Yaris cross in the garage next to a socket and don't fancy the dash solar panel. Could also buy the jump start but prefer the CTEK once or twice a week overnight.
Does the Yaris cross have an AGM batery or the usual type as my current CTEK 5.0 isn't for AGM so would I need to buy a new AGM version from CTEK

Any help would be appreciated

[Chico]

I had the same problem but have found what I think is the perfect solution. I have a CTEC charger the same as yours. When I took the car in for its annual service I took with me a CTEC standard two metre extension lead and asked the service manager to connect one end to the battery, which is virtually impossible for a normal mortal to get at, and run it under the carpet in the boot with the other end in the little open space in the back nearside of the boot. I never put my car in the garage. I have the CTEC mounted on the wall just inside the garage door and just back the car up to a couple of feet from the garage door, plug the charger cable into the end of the new cable in the car, shut the boot lid and garage door and switch on the charger. It takes two minutes at the most. What’s more the Toyota garage charged me nothing to fit the cable.

[Chico]

My apologies, Cuddles. I didn’t answer your specific question because I was too keen to share my under the carpet connection trick. My CTEK battery charger is in fact the MXS 5.0 which is described as being for all types of lead acid batteries. It has a normal battery program which it describes as being suitable for many AGM batteries and it has an AGM option which it describes as suitable for charging most AGM batteries. I have used the AGM option because it seemed the obvious thing to do, but as your charger must be a normal battery charger it seems that if it works you don’t need a new one.

[Cuddles]

I had the same problem but have found what I think is the perfect solution. I have a CTEC charger the same as yours. When I took the car in for its annual service I took with me a CTEC standard two metre extension lead and asked the service manager to connect one end to the battery, which is virtually impossible for a normal mortal to get at, and run it under the carpet in the boot with the other end in the little open space in the back nearside of the boot. I never put my car in the garage. I have the CTEC mounted on the wall just inside the garage door and just back the car up to a couple of feet from the garage door, plug the charger cable into the end of the new cable in the car, shut the boot lid and garage door and switch on the charger. It takes two minutes at the most. What’s more the Toyota garage charged me nothing to fit the cable.

Thanks for that. I have booked a test drive for tomorrow after waiting till just before Xmas to get a better deal (been pffered an icon at £23k if before end of year) but am still concerned at the 12v battery issue. A friend has one with no problems as she uses it quite a bit - 10k per year. I am very used to using the CTEK so that wouldn't be a problem and I would buy a jump starter for the glove box as insurance. Don't fancy the solar charger option. CTEK seems best.
Your solution seems ideal using the boot. I assume you can still close the boot fully with the wire going into it. I wonder if the permanent connectors you can buy (used in my GR Yaris) can also be connected under the bonnet using the fuse box red connector and a nut on the body work near by. If so, that would also work as there are clear gaps for the wire to go through near the lights.
I will be bringing this up with the salesman tomorrow - who I have used for several purchases over many years. See what he offers. It seems it would be better if they fit a propper full size 12v battery or even a small alternator - even as options.